Tuesday, 14 August 2018
Friday, 10 August 2018
Tachi vs Katana
The Tachi and Katana are easily two of the most instantly recognizable swords that originated from Japan. Both have a long and interesting history owing their existence the unique feudal period that dominated Japanese culture for generations. The swords were almost exclusively used by the samurai warrior cast.
The Katana and Tachi are visually very similar, both have a single curved blade and tsuba. It’s easy to understand why some people may mistake one for the other, or even believe that they are both essentially the same sword with a different name. However, there are distinct characteristics that set these two weapons apart which we’ll explore further in this article.
Which Came First?
The Tachi came into being at least a couple of centuries ahead of the Katana. Academics believe the Tachi was developed at the start of the Koto period, or around 900 AD. While the use of the word ‘Katana’ didn’t appear until around the Kamakura period, or 1185 AD to 1333 AD. It is believed by some that the Katana was an evolution of the Tachi, as it utilises many of the same technologies and forging methods used to produce the Tachi.
The Tachi’s Longer Blade
The Katana has been produced with a stouter blade than what is commonly found with a Tachi. A tachi produced using traditional methods and techniques will have a blade length that will average 29 inches. While a Katana produced during the same period will have a blade that will average 23 inches. This shorter length allowed the Katana to have increased utility and was particularly well suited to hand to hand fighting. A Katana also allows for a faster draw, which can make the difference between life and death.
The Tachi’s More Pronounced Curve
Both the Tachi and Katana are known by their defining feature, which is the curved blade. However, the Tachi has a significantly more pronounced curvature. This characteristic is a quick and easy way to distinguish between the two swords, the Tachi will feature a deeper curve.
The Katana Was Worn Blade Up
Another difference that set the Tachi and Katana apart was how they were worn. Most Japanese swords, or swords produced in other regions around the world, are predominantly worn with the cutting edge facing down. This is certainly true of the Tachi, but not the Katana. A Katana was unique because of how it was worn, which was with the cutting edge facing up. This offered the Samurai some advantages when it came to combat, allowing the sword to be drawn and used to strike in one fluid movement. In a situation where fractions of a second could mean the difference between victory and defeat, a faster draw could prove to be massively advantageous.
How They Were Used
Another key difference that differentiates the Tachi and the Katana is how they were used in battle and the style of fighting they suited. It is believed that Tachi was primarily worn while fighting on horseback, this view is supported by the pronounced curve of the sword as well as the extended length. This design and dimensions allowed for greater reach while on horseback and the curve is well-suited slashing rather than stabbing. The Katana, on the other hand, would primarily be used in close quarters combat while on foot.
Signed by the Swordsmith
Often the Tachi and Katana were signed on the tang by the swordsmith that forged the sword. However, as the Katana was worn with the edge of the blade facing upwards, the signature would often be reversed. Not all Japanese swords would have been signed by the swordsmith, but if they are, taking a look at the tang is an easy way to distinguish between the two types of sword.
from
https://www.katanasale.com/blogs/katanasale/tachi-vs-katana
5160 Steel
5160 steel, also known as AISI 5160 Alloy Spring Steel, is a high carbon and chromium alloy (0.6% carbon content, 0.9% chromium content and 1% manganese content). The steel offers significant levels of toughness, impressive resistance to fatigue and a high degree of ductility. 5160 steel is commonly used within industrial applications and within the automotive industry where robust and heavy duty springs are required.
5160 Steel
Additionally, 5160 steel has been widely adopted by sword and knife manufacturers due to its unique properties. It’s especially well-suited to tools that require a high degree of impact resistance and which need to be capable of taking and keeping an edge through extended use, for example, swords and large knives.
The steel has quickly gained favour amongst katana users and it has repeatedly proven it’s suitability as a functional sword, suitable for iaido or backyard cutting.
5160 steel can be differentially hardened using clay tempering, however, the Hamon produced is difficult to spot due to the increased levels of Chrome present in the alloy.
Check out our collection here.
Caring for 5160 Steel
Despite the addition of chromium, 5160 steel is prone to rusting in the same way as any other carbon steel. Care must be taken to prevent oxidation of the blade, but this need only take a few minutes each week to achieve.
After each use, be sure to thoroughly wipe the blade clean of any debris, fingerprints or other foreign bodies.
After every use, wipe the blade clean to ensure all fingerprints are removed, as well as other contaminants. Spend a few minutes every couple of weeks to apply a thin layer of mineral oil or choji oil. If you are required to store your blade for any length of time, then apply a coating of Vaseline or Rennaissance to the blade to create a physical barrier between the elements and the blade of the sword.
from
https://www.katanasale.com/blogs/katanasale/5160-steel
Thursday, 9 August 2018
What is a Hamon Line?
In the world of swordsmithing, the Hamon (which literally translates to ‘blade pattern’) is created on Katana as part of the differential hardening process. The Hamon indicates and outlines (yakiba) the hardened edge of the blade (ha). A sword which has been clay tempered, also know as differentially hardened are treated in this way in order to create a harder cutting edge and softer more flexible spine (mune). For example, a blade may be treated in order to create a cutting edge that is 58 HRC while the spine is 40 HRC, which is a substantial difference in hardness.
Differential hardening is achieved by applying a layer of clay to the blade before heating and cooling has been performed. Adding more clay to the spine and less or no clay to the edge will mean the edge will cool much faster than the spine once the blade has been quenched. The speed at which the metal cools creates different crystalline structures within the steel, a faster cool will create a tougher more rigid structure, but a longer cooling process allows for softer more flexible steel to be produced. Creating differences in flexibility and toughness allows for a blade that will remain sharp as well as being flexible enough to take a blow without snapping.
The Hamon line marks the transition between the tougher martensitic steel on the blades cutting edge and the more flexible pearlitic steel that makes up the swords spine. The objective of the process is to create this difference in hardness, the appearance of the Hamon line is only a side effect. However, the aesthetic appeal of the Hamon line should not be underestimated, not only as proof that the blade has undergone the clay tempering process but they are also artistically interesting. The complex patterns created within the Hamon are an appealing point for anyone considering purchasing a Katana.
Many modern Katana reproductions do not have Hamon line achieved through clay tempering process as the swords are produced from already hardened monosteel. Instead, the Hamon line may be reproduced through artificial means such as sandblasting, acid etching and low tech approaches such as wire brushing. Even if a modern day sword contains a genuinely produced Hamon, the effect may be further enhanced by acid etching to further emphasise the difference between the two types of steel.
A real Hamon can normally be identified by inspecting the Hamon line which will contain bright specks called ‘nioi’. The nioi is best viewed by looking along the plane of the blade and it cannot be currently be produced through artificial processes. If viewed through a microscope, the noio will appear as sparkly crystalline martensite grains surrounded by the darker in appearance pearlite. All the swords we sell have a section that will tell you if the Hamon is artificially produced or the real thing.
History of the Hamon Line
According to the legend of the Hamon, a swordsmith called Amakuni Yasutsuna developed the process of differential hardening during the 8th century AD. The tale goes that when the emperor returned from battle with his soldiers in tow, Yasutsuna noticed that over half of the sword where broken. Amukuni with his son, Amakura, upon examining the broken weapons, vowed to create a weapon that would not break so easily.
Amakuni and Amakura then secluded themselves away for 30 days to work on the problem. When they next appeared, they had produced the legendary curved blade that would eventually evolve into the Katana. During the spring of the following year, another war was upon them. This time when the soldiers returned from battle not a single sword was broken. This feat of engineering carried Amakuni great favour with the emperor.
Even though it’s impossible to collaborate this legend and determine who exactly invented the clay tempering method, blades produced by Yasutsuna and date back to the 8th-century display Hamon lines, suggesting that even if he didn’t pioneer the methodology, he was at the forefront of its adoption.
from
https://www.katanasale.com/blogs/katanasale/what-is-a-hamon-line
Wednesday, 8 August 2018
How to Clean a Katana
So, you’ve bought or you’re thinking about buying a katana, but perhaps you’re not sure how you should be cleaning it? This guide is here to show you how to care for your Katana correctly, ensuring you don’t end up with unsightly rust all over your beautiful blade.
Things You’ll Need to Clean a Katana
Before we jump into the cleaning process, there are a couple of bits an pieces you’ll need to get started. Some of these you’ll probably have laying around the house already, while others you probably don’t, and others yet you can probably do without or use an alternative.
Choji Oil: this is an oil that is specifically made for use with Japanese swords and prevents rusting by creating a physical barrier to keep moisture and oxygen out. If you can’t get your hands on Choji oil, you can use mineral oil as a substitute.
An Oil Cloth: this is a soft cloth that is used to apply a new layer of oil to the blade of the sword.
Wiping Paper: this a very soft tissue paper which is used to clean residual dust and oil from a katana’s blade. Alternatively, very soft unscented paper towels can be used as a replacement.
Wiping Cloth: you can use the same type of material as used for the oilcloth, it just can’t be the same cloth. You don’t want to be adding oil to be the blade when you’re supposed to be removing it.
Uchiko Ball: this is a silk ball filled with high quality finely ground stone. It’s used to assist in the cleaning process by binding with the oil.
If you can’t locate these items individually or from your local stores, it’s easy enough to buy the full kit for a small amount of money. The one I use and recommend can be bought here.
How to Clean a Katana
Taking 5 minutes before you start the cleaning process can make things much easier and more efficient. Start by laying out everything you might need so you have them readily available when you need them. Once you start the cleaning process you don’t want to put the Katana down until you’re finished so as to avoid contaminants such as hair, dust, crumbs or anything else.
- First, apply a small amount of Choji oil or mineral oil to your oilcloth.
- Carefully draw the Katana out of saya, keeping the blade facing upwards and the point away from your body.
- Once you’ve successfully removed the Katana from the saya, gently tap the mouth of the Saya against a hard surface such as a table in order to loosen and remove any dirt or debris. Foreign bodies within the Saya can cause scratches and corrosion of the sword's blade.
- Set the Saya to the side and pick up the Katana again.
- Using the clean wiping cloth, remove the previous coating of oil from the surface of the blade. Wipe blade in one direction, starting from the bottom and working your way up to the tip, ensuring your fingers stay well clear of the edge. Repeat this a few times to remove as much oil as possible. If the blade features a bo-hi, make sure special attention is paid to ensure all old is removed from it as well.
- Take the uchiko ball and tape a small amount of powder onto the blade. Begin at the collar of the Katana and tap all the way along to the tip to ensure an even coating of powder, repeat this process for each side of the sword.
- Use the wiping paper to remove the powder and remaining oil from the blade using the same technique employed used for the wiping cloth.
- Use the oilcloth to apply a thin and even layer of oil to the blade, again using the same motion used in the previous steps. You will only need to apply the oil once and try to avoid contaminating any other parts of the blade with oil.
- Taking the oilcloth use the same method in the previous steps by approaching the blade from the back of the sword and apply the oil to the blade. Do this only once and try to avoid getting the oil on any part aside from the blade.
- Carefully insert the Katana back into the saya.
Check out the video below for an easy to follow in an instructional video of the whole process.
Final Thoughts
Buying all the pieces you need individually may cost you more than buying a cleaning kit. For a small expense, you can potentially save the cost of your sword, the last thing you want is for your blade to become rusty or to become stuck to the inside of the saya. Investing a few minutes every couple of weeks will ensure you get a lifetime of use out your blade. If you do need a new sword, check out our collection here.
It perhaps goes without saying, but extreme caution should be taken when cleaning a Katana, they are sharp and where originally designed to cause physical harm, so bear that in mind at all times.
from
https://www.katanasale.com/blogs/katanasale/how-to-clean-a-katana
What is the Length of a Katana?
There is no right or wrong length for a Katana, as a sword's length will ideally match the dimensions of the wielder. However, we can make some generalisations as to what size we might expect the ‘average’ Katana to be.
Katana Measurements
A Katana is traditionally measured from the notch in the habaki to the tip of the sword, this is done in a straight line and doesn’t account for the curvature of the sword, most Katana will be in excess of 2 shaku. A shaku is a unit of measurement which is calibrated against the metric system, where 10 metres is equivalent to exactly 33 shaku, so a shaku is 33.3 cm or 11.93 inches.
Historically shaku where slightly longer, equalling 13.96 inches or 35.45 cm. This discrepancy can cause some confusion, depending on which shaku value is used and whether it’s converted to the imperial or metric system. For the sake of clarity and to keep things consistent, we’ll only use the modern measurement of a shaku.
If we take a look at the most common types of Japanese blades they can be broken down into 3 lengths:
- 1 shaku commonly used for Tanto or daggers
- 1-2 shaku often used for Wakizashi or Kodachi
- 2-3 shaku commonly used for katana
In terms of the average or most popular katana length, you can expect the average blade to be between 2.3 and 2.5 shaku or 27 and 30 inches (70 to 76 cm). The overall length of a Katana including the tsuka (handle) can be expected to between 3.3 and 3.6 shuka or 39 and 43 inches (100cm to 110cm). The models we sell are between these ranges.
As we’ve already discussed, it’s possible to find Katana that fall well outside these averages, which doesn’t mean they are any less capable or effective. A sword which suits a 6-foot man might not be suitable for a 5-foot woman, finding a blade that suits your body dimensions is just as important as finding a quality sword.
from
https://www.katanasale.com/blogs/katanasale/what-is-the-length-of-a-katana
The Parts of a Katana | Terminology & Guide
The Katana or Samurai Sword is Japanese sword with ancient origins. Fabled for being wielded by the Samurai warrior caste, it has a long and rich history, beginning with its Chinese origins all the way up to its use in the second world war and beyond. The Katana has been forged and crafted by skills swordsmiths for hundreds of generations, evolving over time to become the sword which is now at the forefront of popular culture.
No two Samurai Swords are ever going to be identical, they’ll each have their own quirks and character imparted by the sword forging process. Traditionally, only the Samurai caste could own and wield a Katana, the punishment for breaking this law was often swift and deadly. Nowadays the Samurai no longer exist, but there is still intense regulation around the forging of Katana within Japan, with limited numbers produced per swordsmith every year. View our collection here.
The parts of a Katana
Kashira: The kashira is the butt, pommel or knob which is found at the end of the swords handle.
Tsuka: The tsuka is the swords handle which has been tightly wrapped with a type of cloth called the tsukaito. The process of wrapping the hilt of the sword is called tsukamaki, and required a great deal of patience and skill to master. The tools required are paper, glue, cloth (ito) and of course the tsuka itself.
Samekawa: The samekawa is another form of hilt wrapping which sits under the tsukaito. It’s often made from stingray skin or occasionally shark skin. Modern versions will often use synthetic materials.
Menuki: The menuki are small decorative sculptures, often depicting animals or mythological creatures. The menuki will be placed on top of the samekawa but under the tsukaito. These ornaments would often be used show the character of the sword owner, nowaday they are purely used for aesthetic purposes.
Mekugi: The mekugi are small pegs made from bamboo that affix the swords tang in place underneath the handle. It’s important that these pegs are flexible and durable so as to remain intact when the sword is impacted.
Tang: The tang is the section of the blade that extends into the swords handle, the tang may also be called the nakago. It’s held in place by the mekugi. A full tang is highly recommended if a functional sword is required.
Fuchi: The fuchi is the metal sleeve that keeps the tsuka locked together.
Seppa: The seppa look a bit like metal washers which serve as spacers located on the sides of the handguards and they allow for the tightness of the sword handle to be adjusted.
Tsuba: The tsuba is the japanese name for the swords handguard. Often these handguards are engraved or carved with patterns or creatures to create fascinating designs. The tsuba additionally helps protect the wielder's hand from slipping from the handle onto the sword's blade.
Habaki: The habaki is the metal collar located at the base of the blade of the sword. The purpose of the habaki is to increase the swords stability and the ensure all parts fit tightly together.
Saya: The Saya or scabbard is used to protect the blade while not in use, both from the elements and to prevent accidental injury. Traditional Saya is constructed from Honoki wood, which is carved and fitted together into the desired shape. Most saya are then lacquered in order to provide a level of weatherproofing and for decorative purposes.
Sageo: The sageo is a cord the secures the saya to the warrior's side allowing for convenient and easy access.
Ken: The Ken is the name for the blade of a Japanese sword. The processes and skill involved in making a Japanese blade in the traditional manner are quite remarkable and involves many stages to go from steel billet to completed sword. Many swordsmiths in Japan spend a lifetime dedicated to the art form, striving to create the perfect sword to rival those created by the masters' swordsmiths from history. Despite advances in modern technology and better insights into steel alloys, many claims that the blades produced during the Edo period are far superior to anything produced today, however, it is intrinsically difficult to put such claims to the test given that most Edo period swords are strictly museum pieces.
The swords blade itself has several parts:
Hamon: The Hamon is the wave-like pattern formed on the edge of the blade during the differential hardening process. Today, the Hamon is often produced for aesthetic purposes only, these are generally produced with either acid etching or engraving.
Yaibi: The yaibi is the cutting edge of the blade. It is important to point out that a sword should not be oversharpened, doing so can decrease the effectiveness of its cutting ability as well as posing unnecessary dangers to the user.
Kissaki: The kissaki is the chisel tip at the end of the sword. A well-formed, sharpened and polished kissaki is a good indication of a quality sword.
from
https://www.katanasale.com/blogs/katanasale/the-parts-of-a-katana-terminology-guide
Tuesday, 7 August 2018
How Much Does a Katana Weigh?
If you’re thinking about buying a Katana, you might be wondering to yourself, how much does a katana weigh? The answer is perhaps not as straightforward as it might first appear, with numerous factors influencing the final weight such as materials used, length, thickness and width. We can make a ballpark approximation based on the various weights we’ve come across, but any individual Katana may fall well outside this range.
Katana Weight
Most Katana are between 900 grams and 1400 grams (2lbs to 3.1lbs), with the average Katana weighing in at 1200 grams (1.2kg or 2.65 lbs). Historical Katana’s made using traditional methods tend to be slightly heavier than modern-day counterparts, but there are so many factors influencing the weight of a Katana that it’s difficult to make a sweeping statement as to how heavy a Katana should be.
Most of the Katana we sell are between 1000 grams and 1200 grams, these figures vary from sword to sword, as the sword forging process is as much an art as it is a science. The saya will add approximately 100 – 200 grams to the final weight of the sword, but this again differs from saya to saya. You can click here to see our range.
Materials
Not all steels weigh the same amount for the volume of space occupied. Some modern-day steel alloys incorporate other metals that can decrease the mass of the final product without affecting the structural integrity. For example, magnesium steel alloys are significantly lighter than many common steels and don’t sacrifice strength to achieve this lightness. Many of these newer steels are not commonly available for the production of swords, but we would expect this to change as the technology spreads, which could result in a significant decrease in the weight of katana.
As it stands just now, there’s not a significant difference between the weight of the metals used in production swords. The size, shape and amount of steel used is the biggest influencing factor at present.
from
https://www.katanasale.com/blogs/katanasale/how-much-does-a-katana-weigh
Friday, 3 August 2018
1060 Carbon Steel Guide
Steel is available in several flavours, while we’re all mostly familiar with stainless steel, there are actually more than 100 types of steel alloy available. Steel can be used in an incredible amount of industrial applications, varying in hardness, toughness and flexibility depending on the levels of additional compounds mixed into the alloy. These variations mean one type of steel is ideal for shock absorbers, while another is better suited to cutlery. Every steel contains at least some carbon, the amount present varies depending on what the steel is to be used for.
1060 Steel Properties
1060 carbon steel is a commonly available general purpose steel which is frequently used in a range of engineering applications where extreme toughness and strength are not major concerns. It’s designated as medium carbon content, containing 0.60% carbon. It’ll frequently be used in automotive parts such as axles, shafts, pistons, gears and clutches. Owing to its availability, adequate toughness and reasonable mailability, the steel is often used in the production of swords. Other steels in the 10xx range may contain more or less carbon, generally speaking, the lower the final two numbers, the less carbon is present and the softer the resulting steel will be. 1060 carbon steel offers a reasonable balance between hardness, mailability and affordability.
1060 Steel for Swords
1060 steel swords can take a decent edge which will additionally be resistant to wear and tear, meaning less time required for sharpening. However, as with all carbon steels, it may rust if not cared for correctly. All of our swords are delivered with a think coating of oil which stops the oxidization of the steel. This coating must be maintained to avoid rusting. If rust spots do appear they can be easily removed with a bit of patience and some very fine sandpaper.
1060 steel is less brittle than other steels with a higher carbon content and it presents an excellent balance between toughness and flexibility. The steel can be sharpened with very little effort and it will remain sharp through continued use. However, as with all swords, they must be handled correctly and professionally, taking due care to use proper techniques. A mishandled blade can snap or cause serious physical harm.
In order to create an even harder cutting edge, 1060 steel can be differentiated hardened, which creates a tough cutting edge and a flexible spine. This process must be professionally performed so as to avoid weakening the structural integrity of the blade.
CARING FOR 1060 STEEL
To ensure your sword lasts a lifetime of use, it’s important to perform regular maintenance, this will prevent rust spots from forming and ensure the blade remains functionally sharp. After every use, wipe the blade clean to ensure all fingerprints are removed, as well as other contaminants. Take the time to lightly oil the blade every fortnight with mineral oil or oil specifically designed for swords. If you intend to store the sword for any length of time, then coating the blade with vaseline or Renaissance is a great choice. These substances create a barrier which prevents the oxygen from reacting with the iron content of the blade. Additionally, a coating of oil provides a nice shiny finish for the sword,
In order to keep your sword in tip-top condition and rust free for as long as possible, a few minutes of maintenance every week is recommended. Wipe the blade clean after every use to remove fingerprints, dust, and other contaminants, and ensure it’s oiled at least once a fortnight. If long-term storage is required, consider coating the blade in vaseline or Renaissance which has been specifically designed to preserve items. The oil creates a physical barrier from the elements such as water and oxygen from reaching the blade and will prevent rusting. The coating of oil will also give the sword a nice shine.
from
https://www.katanasale.com/blogs/katanasale/1060-carbon-steel-guide
Thursday, 2 August 2018
What is T10 Steel?
T10 is a type of tool steel, which perhaps unsurprisingly is used in many manufacturing processes. As with all tool steels, they must be able to withstand significant pressures and temperatures, which makes them ideally suited for sword use.
Tools steels are made to withstand repeated impacts at a range of extreme temperatures without losing their endurance characteristics, which is why they are so well suited to use in industrial settings.
There are numerous flavors of tool steels available, most of which function in a similar manner, while others are specifically made to meet niche requirements.
T10 Steel
With regards to t10 steel, the T, in this case, signifies that it’s a High-Speed steel with a Tungsten Base. High-Speed tool steels include tungsten (t1 to t15) and the molybdenum (M1 to M52) steel alloys. These allow are characterized by their ability to be hardened to 62 to 67 HRC. while maintaining this hardness through significant temperature ranges, up to 1004°F, which means they are particularly well suited to high-speed machinery (hence the name). These steel alloys are commonly employed in drills, lathes, routers, and saws. The 10 in T10 signifies the carbon content, which ranges between 0.95% and 1.05%. The T types of steel start at T1` which is between 0.05% and 0.15% carbon content, all the way up to T15 which typically has a carbon content of between 1.2% and 1.3%.
It is often the case that forges will not completely understand or know what type of steel they are selling to people. There is a distinct lack of publicly available and easily understood information published, which can result in T10 tool steel being lumped in and sold as something which is largely identical to the more popular and better-understood carbon steels such as 1060 or 1095. However, there is an important distinction to make between these steel types, both in endurance, strength, and ability to resist scratches and marking.
T10 steel is perhaps one of the strongest and most suitable carbon steels that we are easily able to obtain for sword use. Its characteristics and properties are not only suitable for tools, but it can create a superb sword as well.
Pretty much any steel can be worked and sharpened to hold an edge, but most are unable to hold a candle to T10’s edge holding ability. A T10 edge will remain for a significant amount of time without additional sharpening requires, it’ll also resist most types of abrasive damage which is common to swords that are used for cutting. Additionally, T10 will remain impact resistant and allow for the stresses normally produced when performing a cut to be easily absorbed without any compromises made to the integrity of the blade.
Most high carbon steels will lose a portion of their carbon content during the forging process, heating and quenching repeatedly will inevitably reduce the overall carbon levels. In a practical sense, this means that that steel that was 1095 will normally end up with a lesser carbon content once it’s been forged into a sword. With regards to T10, it has been specifically designed to retain its carbon content at high temperatures. This allows for a sword made out of T10 steel to be hardened significantly more than a normal production sword.
from
https://www.katanasale.com/blogs/katanasale/what-is-t10-steel
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An authentic handmade katana, forged by a Japanese swordsmith (Shinken), can quite easily cost upwards of $14,000. A handmade katana forged outwith Japan made using traditional methods will vary from around $300 up to around $2500.
So why does it cost so much? What distinguishes an authentic katana from cheap, stainless steel swords available for $50 from your local mall?
This article has been put together to give you an idea of the craftsmanship that goes into an authentic Katana. We’ll also try to dispel a few myths surrounding these swords and make you better informed about hand forged katana.
Handmade Katana: Forging an Authentic Sword
All antique Japanese Katana or any sword that has been made using traditional methods will feature three distinct processes. These processes are folding, laminating and differential hardening, otherwise known as clay tempering, it’s this procedure that creates the distinctive Hamon line.
The question at this point should be, are all of these processes strictly necessary in order to create a battle ready katana? Are modern-day steels enough to do the job by themselves without these time consuming and expensive treatments? After all, modern-day steels function in very high-intensity environments such as vehicles, tools and military applications. Are handmade Katana simply created the way that they are because that’s the way they’ve always been made?
Let’s take a closer look at each of the processes.
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Folded Steel Katana
If you’re asking yourself, what do these folds and layers actually do? Are they created for a reason? Nowadays the folding process is largely an aesthetic exercise, doing very little for the resultant swords resilience or capabilities.
In the olden days, the iron ore available to Japanese sword smiths was pretty poor. Not ones to be easily deterred, the Japanese metal workers came up with ingenious methods for taking the various types of poor quality iron and turning them into something a bit better. This was accomplished by heating the iron over a 72 hour period in a specialist furnace name the Tatara. The resulting steel (Tamagahane) could then be shipped to swordsmiths.
However, despite the steel undergoing the extensive heat treatment, it wasn’t pure enough to be made into a Katana. In order to improve the steel further, the swordsmiths would fold the steel multiple times, this folding process would even out and homogenize the carbon.
Nowadays, swordsmiths that are not using Tamahagane are unlikely to perform the folding process out of any necessity to even out the steels carbon content. Modern-day steel is far beyond anything available to ancient Japanese swordsmiths, it’s technically and chemically superior in almost every way imaginable, so you can just skip the folding steps unless you want it folded for aesthetic reasons or for the sake of traditional authentic Katana.
However, the remaining two processes are far more practical and can in the right circumstances lead to a superior sword.
Katana Lamination
Unlike the folding process, which as we’ve already established is largely unnecessary unless it’s for aesthetic reasons, Lamination can and does change the physical properties of a Katana and can result in a superior sword.
There are more than a dozen ways in which Lamination can be performed, with each way having a distinct name, for example, Kobuse and Shoshu Kitae. The visuals below illustrates some of the most popular methods that you’re likely to come across in your search for a sword.
All the various types of Lamination have one defining feature which ties them together (apart from Maru or Monosteel). They all take steels of varying hardness and fuse them together to create a single piece of steel with the intention of creating a sharp sword that won’t snap.
The exact methods used to achieve this goal differ, however, the general idea is that a hard steel is used for the edge and softer more flexible steel is used to surround this edge. The more complicated the methods used to accomplish this goal, the higher the likelihood that the sword will cost more.
Clay Tempered Katana
So far we’ve established that an authentic handmade Katana will be folded (for aesthetics or traditional reasons) and will be laminated to create a hard yet flexible blade. In order to take the idea of hardened edge and more flexible spine even further, we’ll take a look at the differential hardening/clay tempering method.
At its very core, clay tempering consists of carefully applying a thin layer of wet clay to the edge of the blade, while a thicker layer of clay is applied to the spine of the blade.
The clay is allowed to dry and then the blade is heated to around 750 degrees Celcius, the blade is then immersed in a water or oil bath to rapidly cool it.
As the edge of the blade will cool significantly faster (due to the thinner layer of clay) than the spine of the blade, two different steel crystalline structures are produced. The edge will form into a rigid and hard lattice (matensite), while the spine will form a more flexible yet softer spine.
The resultant blade has a very hard edge that will take and retain any attempts at sharpening, while the rest of the blade will allow the sword to flex without snapping.
Obviously, a sword possessing all three of the characteristics of an authentic handmade Katana will have taken a significant amount of time to produce and will cost more than a standard sword. You will typically pay in excess of $700 for a sword that has all three procedures performed.
If you could only choose one process, which is the best one to pick?
I think it goes without saying that unless you’re exceptionally keen on the aesthetics of a folded sword, it’s best to rule it out. They add nothing to modern day steel and may, in fact, weaken the overall integrity of the sword, depending on how well they’ve been formed. So, let’s strike folded steel of the list of must-have features in a Katana.
That leaves us with clary tempering/differential hardening and lamination. So, which is better? In practice, if both have been performed with equal levels of skill, then the end result should be swords that are equally capable. However, without a doubt, differential hardening is the most popular choice available.
Why Clay Tempering?
Clay tempering will produce an effect very similar to lamination, but, it’s also significantly easier to perform and it will also produce a Hamon as part of the process.
Small disclaimer. A handmade Katana that is used for active cutting has one major drawback when compared to monosteel. That is, if used incorrectly, they can take a permanent bend to the blade. When two levels of hardness are present in a steel, any sort of the substantial lateral force can and will cause the blade to become permanently bent out of shape. While a monosteel Katana if heat treated and produced using quality steel, will tend to return to its original shape.
Sadly, it’s often the case that authentic handmade Katana are less capable than cheaper to produce monosteel swords.
At this point, you might be asking yourself, why even bother with a handmade Katana? It’s a great question and well worth exploring.
It’s true that modern swords are fantastic pieces of engineering and are available at a range of prices, you’ll be hard pressed to not find something to suit everyone from the first time cutter through to experienced practitioners. However, they can be somewhat lacking in character. One of the things that makes a handmade Katana so special is that it’s essentially a unique piece of artwork that the product of years of experience by the swordsmith and hundreds of years of cultural influence. It’s a representation of form working hand in hand with a function to produce something truly remarkable
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