Handmade Katana | Authentically Forged

An authentic handmade katana, forged by a Japanese swordsmith (Shinken), can quite easily cost upwards of $14,000. A handmade katana forged outwith Japan made using traditional methods will vary from around $300 up to around $2500.
So why does it cost so much? What distinguishes an authentic katana from cheap, stainless steel swords available for $50 from your local mall?

This article has been put together to give you an idea of the craftsmanship that goes into an authentic Katana. We’ll also try to dispel a few myths surrounding these swords and make you better informed about hand forged katana.

Handmade Katana: Forging an Authentic Sword

All antique Japanese Katana or any sword that has been made using traditional methods will feature three distinct processes. These processes are folding, laminating and differential hardening, otherwise known as clay tempering, it’s this procedure that creates the distinctive Hamon line.

The question at this point should be, are all of these processes strictly necessary in order to create a battle ready katana? Are modern-day steels enough to do the job by themselves without these time consuming and expensive treatments? After all, modern-day steels function in very high-intensity environments such as vehicles, tools and military applications. Are handmade Katana simply created the way that they are because that’s the way they’ve always been made?

Let’s take a closer look at each of the processes.

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Folded Steel Katana

However, the truth of the matter is that no sword is capable of these claims. Most steel that is destined to become a sword will be folded a maximum of 15 times, that’s if it’s folded at all. This still creates a very notable 32,768 layers.There is a huge amount of misleading and false information about folded steel katana, the sheer rubbish that is spouted by so-called ‘experts’ is overwhelming. Some might make you believe that an authentic katana will be folded over 1,000 times to create a steel that is impervious to almost everything. Not only that, but the sword is sharp enough to slice its way through armor plating and anything else which is unlucky enough to get in its way.

If you’re asking yourself, what do these folds and layers actually do? Are they created for a reason? Nowadays the folding process is largely an aesthetic exercise, doing very little for the resultant swords resilience or capabilities.

In the olden days, the iron ore available to Japanese sword smiths was pretty poor. Not ones to be easily deterred, the Japanese metal workers came up with ingenious methods for taking the various types of poor quality iron and turning them into something a bit better. This was accomplished by heating the iron over a 72 hour period in a specialist furnace name the Tatara. The resulting steel (Tamagahane) could then be shipped to swordsmiths.

However, despite the steel undergoing the extensive heat treatment, it wasn’t pure enough to be made into a Katana. In order to improve the steel further, the swordsmiths would fold the steel multiple times, this folding process would even out and homogenize the carbon.
Nowadays, swordsmiths that are not using Tamahagane are unlikely to perform the folding process out of any necessity to even out the steels carbon content. Modern-day steel is far beyond anything available to ancient Japanese swordsmiths, it’s technically and chemically superior in almost every way imaginable, so you can just skip the folding steps unless you want it folded for aesthetic reasons or for the sake of traditional authentic Katana. 

However, the remaining two processes are far more practical and can in the right circumstances lead to a superior sword.

Katana Lamination

Unlike the folding process, which as we’ve already established is largely unnecessary unless it’s for aesthetic reasons, Lamination can and does change the physical properties of a Katana and can result in a superior sword. 
There are more than a dozen ways in which Lamination can be performed, with each way having a distinct name, for example, Kobuse and Shoshu Kitae. The visuals below illustrates some of the most popular methods that you’re likely to come across in your search for a sword. 

All the various types of Lamination have one defining feature which ties them together (apart from Maru or Monosteel). They all take steels of varying hardness and fuse them together to create a single piece of steel with the intention of creating a sharp sword that won’t snap.

The exact methods used to achieve this goal differ, however, the general idea is that a hard steel is used for the edge and softer more flexible steel is used to surround this edge. The more complicated the methods used to accomplish this goal, the higher the likelihood that the sword will cost more.

Clay Tempered Katana

So far we’ve established that an authentic handmade Katana will be folded (for aesthetics or traditional reasons) and will be laminated to create a hard yet flexible blade. In order to take the idea of hardened edge and more flexible spine even further, we’ll take a look at the differential hardening/clay tempering method. 
At its very core, clay tempering consists of carefully applying a thin layer of wet clay to the edge of the blade, while a thicker layer of clay is applied to the spine of the blade.

The clay is allowed to dry and then the blade is heated to around 750 degrees Celcius, the blade is then immersed in a water or oil bath to rapidly cool it.
As the edge of the blade will cool significantly faster (due to the thinner layer of clay) than the spine of the blade, two different steel crystalline structures are produced. The edge will form into a rigid and hard lattice (matensite), while the spine will form a more flexible yet softer spine. 

The resultant blade has a very hard edge that will take and retain any attempts at sharpening, while the rest of the blade will allow the sword to flex without snapping. 

Obviously, a sword possessing all three of the characteristics of an authentic handmade Katana will have taken a significant amount of time to produce and will cost more than a standard sword. You will typically pay in excess of $700 for a sword that has all three procedures performed. 

If you could only choose one process, which is the best one to pick?
I think it goes without saying that unless you’re exceptionally keen on the aesthetics of a folded sword, it’s best to rule it out. They add nothing to modern day steel and may, in fact, weaken the overall integrity of the sword, depending on how well they’ve been formed. So, let’s strike folded steel of the list of must-have features in a Katana. 

That leaves us with clary tempering/differential hardening and lamination. So, which is better? In practice, if both have been performed with equal levels of skill, then the end result should be swords that are equally capable. However, without a doubt, differential hardening is the most popular choice available.

Why Clay Tempering?

Clay tempering will produce an effect very similar to lamination, but, it’s also significantly easier to perform and it will also produce a Hamon as part of the process.

Small disclaimer. A handmade Katana that is used for active cutting has one major drawback when compared to monosteel. That is, if used incorrectly, they can take a permanent bend to the blade. When two levels of hardness are present in a steel, any sort of the substantial lateral force can and will cause the blade to become permanently bent out of shape. While a monosteel Katana if heat treated and produced using quality steel, will tend to return to its original shape.

Sadly, it’s often the case that authentic handmade Katana are less capable than cheaper to produce monosteel swords.

At this point, you might be asking yourself, why even bother with a handmade Katana? It’s a great question and well worth exploring.

It’s true that modern swords are fantastic pieces of engineering and are available at a range of prices, you’ll be hard pressed to not find something to suit everyone from the first time cutter through to experienced practitioners. However, they can be somewhat lacking in character. One of the things that makes a handmade Katana so special is that it’s essentially a unique piece of artwork that the product of years of experience by the swordsmith and hundreds of years of cultural influence. It’s a representation of form working hand in hand with a function to produce something truly remarkable

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Tachi vs Katana

The Tachi and Katana are easily two of the most instantly recognizable swords that originated from Japan. Both have a long and interesting history owing their existence the unique feudal period that dominated Japanese culture for generations. The swords were almost exclusively used by the samurai warrior cast. 

The Katana and Tachi are visually very similar, both have a single curved blade and tsuba. It’s easy to understand why some people may mistake one for the other, or even believe that they are both essentially the same sword with a different name. However, there are distinct characteristics that set these two weapons apart which we’ll explore further in this article. 

Which Came First?

The Tachi came into being at least a couple of centuries ahead of the Katana. Academics believe the Tachi was developed at the start of the Koto period, or around 900 AD. While the use of the word ‘Katana’ didn’t appear until around the Kamakura period, or 1185 AD to 1333 AD. It is believed by some that the Katana was an evolution of the Tachi, as it utilises many of the same technologies and forging methods used to produce the Tachi.

The Tachi’s Longer Blade

The Katana has been produced with a stouter blade than what is commonly found with a Tachi. A tachi produced using traditional methods and techniques will have a blade length that will average 29 inches. While a Katana produced during the same period will have a blade that will average 23 inches. This shorter length allowed the Katana to have increased utility and was particularly well suited to hand to hand fighting. A Katana also allows for a faster draw, which can make the difference between life and death.

The Tachi’s More Pronounced Curve

Both the Tachi and Katana are known by their defining feature, which is the curved blade. However, the Tachi has a significantly more pronounced curvature. This characteristic is a quick and easy way to distinguish between the two swords, the Tachi will feature a deeper curve.

The Katana Was Worn Blade Up

Another difference that set the Tachi and Katana apart was how they were worn. Most Japanese swords, or swords produced in other regions around the world, are predominantly worn with the cutting edge facing down. This is certainly true of the Tachi, but not the Katana. A Katana was unique because of how it was worn, which was with the cutting edge facing up. This offered the Samurai some advantages when it came to combat, allowing the sword to be drawn and used to strike in one fluid movement. In a situation where fractions of a second could mean the difference between victory and defeat, a faster draw could prove to be massively advantageous.

How They Were Used

Another key difference that differentiates the Tachi and the Katana is how they were used in battle and the style of fighting they suited. It is believed that Tachi was primarily worn while fighting on horseback, this view is supported by the pronounced curve of the sword as well as the extended length. This design and dimensions allowed for greater reach while on horseback and the curve is well-suited slashing rather than stabbing. The Katana, on the other hand, would primarily be used in close quarters combat while on foot.

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Signed by the Swordsmith

Often the Tachi and Katana were signed on the tang by the swordsmith that forged the sword. However, as the Katana was worn with the edge of the blade facing upwards, the signature would often be reversed. Not all Japanese swords would have been signed by the swordsmith, but if they are, taking a look at the tang is an easy way to distinguish between the two types of sword.

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5160 Steel

5160 steel, also known as AISI 5160 Alloy Spring Steel, is a high carbon and chromium alloy (0.6% carbon content, 0.9% chromium content and 1% manganese content). The steel offers significant levels of toughness, impressive resistance to fatigue and a high degree of ductility. 5160 steel is commonly used within industrial applications and within the automotive industry where robust and heavy duty springs are required.

5160 Steel

Additionally, 5160 steel has been widely adopted by sword and knife manufacturers due to its unique properties. It’s especially well-suited to tools that require a high degree of impact resistance and which need to be capable of taking and keeping an edge through extended use, for example, swords and large knives.

The steel has quickly gained favour amongst katana users and it has repeatedly proven it’s suitability as a functional sword, suitable for iaido or backyard cutting. 
5160 steel can be differentially hardened using clay tempering, however, the Hamon produced is difficult to spot due to the increased levels of Chrome present in the alloy.

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Caring for 5160 Steel

Despite the addition of chromium, 5160 steel is prone to rusting in the same way as any other carbon steel. Care must be taken to prevent oxidation of the blade, but this need only take a few minutes each week to achieve.

After each use, be sure to thoroughly wipe the blade clean of any debris, fingerprints or other foreign bodies. 

After every use, wipe the blade clean to ensure all fingerprints are removed, as well as other contaminants. Spend a few minutes every couple of weeks to apply a thin layer of mineral oil or choji oil. If you are required to store your blade for any length of time, then apply a coating of Vaseline or Rennaissance to the blade to create a physical barrier between the elements and the blade of the sword.

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What is a Hamon Line?

In the world of swordsmithing, the Hamon (which literally translates to ‘blade pattern’) is created on Katana as part of the differential hardening process. The Hamon indicates and outlines (yakiba) the hardened edge of the blade (ha). A sword which has been clay tempered, also know as differentially hardened are treated in this way in order to create a harder cutting edge and softer more flexible spine (mune). For example, a blade may be treated in order to create a cutting edge that is 58 HRC while the spine is 40 HRC, which is a substantial difference in hardness.

Differential hardening is achieved by applying a layer of clay to the blade before heating and cooling has been performed. Adding more clay to the spine and less or no clay to the edge will mean the edge will cool much faster than the spine once the blade has been quenched. The speed at which the metal cools creates different crystalline structures within the steel, a faster cool will create a tougher more rigid structure, but a longer cooling process allows for softer more flexible steel to be produced. Creating differences in flexibility and toughness allows for a blade that will remain sharp as well as being flexible enough to take a blow without snapping.

The Hamon line marks the transition between the tougher martensitic steel on the blades cutting edge and the more flexible pearlitic steel that makes up the swords spine. The objective of the process is to create this difference in hardness, the appearance of the Hamon line is only a side effect. However, the aesthetic appeal of the Hamon line should not be underestimated, not only as proof that the blade has undergone the clay tempering process but they are also artistically interesting. The complex patterns created within the Hamon are an appealing point for anyone considering purchasing a Katana.

Many modern Katana reproductions do not have Hamon line achieved through clay tempering process as the swords are produced from already hardened monosteel. Instead, the Hamon line may be reproduced through artificial means such as sandblasting, acid etching and low tech approaches such as wire brushing. Even if a modern day sword contains a genuinely produced Hamon, the effect may be further enhanced by acid etching to further emphasise the difference between the two types of steel.

A real Hamon can normally be identified by inspecting the Hamon line which will contain bright specks called ‘nioi’. The nioi is best viewed by looking along the plane of the blade and it cannot be currently be produced through artificial processes. If viewed through a microscope, the noio will appear as sparkly crystalline martensite grains surrounded by the darker in appearance pearlite.  All the swords we sell have a section that will tell you if the Hamon is artificially produced or the real thing.

History of the Hamon Line

According to the legend of the Hamon, a swordsmith called Amakuni Yasutsuna developed the process of differential hardening during the 8th century AD. The tale goes that when the emperor returned from battle with his soldiers in tow, Yasutsuna noticed that over half of the sword where broken. Amukuni with his son, Amakura, upon examining the broken weapons, vowed to create a weapon that would not break so easily.

Amakuni and Amakura then secluded themselves away for 30 days to work on the problem. When they next appeared, they had produced the legendary curved blade that would eventually evolve into the Katana. During the spring of the following year, another war was upon them. This time when the soldiers returned from battle not a single sword was broken. This feat of engineering carried Amakuni great favour with the emperor.

Even though it’s impossible to collaborate this legend and determine who exactly invented the clay tempering method, blades produced by Yasutsuna and date back to the 8th-century display Hamon lines, suggesting that even if he didn’t pioneer the methodology, he was at the forefront of its adoption.

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How to Clean a Katana

So, you’ve bought or you’re thinking about buying a katana, but perhaps you’re not sure how you should be cleaning it? This guide is here to show you how to care for your Katana correctly, ensuring you don’t end up with unsightly rust all over your beautiful blade.

Things You’ll Need to Clean a Katana

Before we jump into the cleaning process, there are a couple of bits an pieces you’ll need to get started. Some of these you’ll probably have laying around the house already, while others you probably don’t, and others yet you can probably do without or use an alternative.

Choji Oil: this is an oil that is specifically made for use with Japanese swords and prevents rusting by creating a physical barrier to keep moisture and oxygen out. If you can’t get your hands on Choji oil, you can use mineral oil as a substitute.

An Oil Cloth: this is a soft cloth that is used to apply a new layer of oil to the blade of the sword.

Wiping Paper: this a very soft tissue paper which is used to clean residual dust and oil from a katana’s blade. Alternatively, very soft unscented paper towels can be used as a replacement.

Wiping Cloth: you can use the same type of material as used for the oilcloth, it just can’t be the same cloth. You don’t want to be adding oil to be the blade when you’re supposed to be removing it. 

Uchiko Ball: this is a silk ball filled with high quality finely ground stone. It’s used to assist in the cleaning process by binding with the oil.

If you can’t locate these items individually or from your local stores, it’s easy enough to buy the full kit for a small amount of money. The one I use and recommend can be bought here.

How to Clean a Katana

Taking 5 minutes before you start the cleaning process can make things much easier and more efficient. Start by laying out everything you might need so you have them readily available when you need them. Once you start the cleaning process you don’t want to put the Katana down until you’re finished so as to avoid contaminants such as hair, dust, crumbs or anything else.

1. First, apply a small amount of Choji oil or mineral oil to your oilcloth.
2. Carefully draw the Katana out of saya, keeping the blade facing upwards and the point away from your body.
3. Once you’ve successfully removed the Katana from the saya, gently tap the mouth of the Saya against a hard surface such as a table in order to loosen and remove any dirt or debris. Foreign bodies within the Saya can cause scratches and corrosion of the sword's blade.
4. Set the Saya to the side and pick up the Katana again.
5. Using the clean wiping cloth, remove the previous coating of oil from the surface of the blade. Wipe blade in one direction, starting from the bottom and working your way up to the tip, ensuring your fingers stay well clear of the edge. Repeat this a few times to remove as much oil as possible. If the blade features a bo-hi, make sure special attention is paid to ensure all old is removed from it as well.
6. Take the uchiko ball and tape a small amount of powder onto the blade. Begin at the collar of the Katana and tap all the way along to the tip to ensure an even coating of powder, repeat this process for each side of the sword.
7. Use the wiping paper to remove the powder and remaining oil from the blade using the same technique employed used for the wiping cloth.
8. Use the oilcloth to apply a thin and even layer of oil to the blade, again using the same motion used in the previous steps. You will only need to apply the oil once and try to avoid contaminating any other parts of the blade with oil.
9. Taking the oilcloth use the same method in the previous steps by approaching the blade from the back of the sword and apply the oil to the blade. Do this only once and try to avoid getting the oil on any part aside from the blade.
10. Carefully insert the Katana back into the saya. 

Check out the video below for an easy to follow in an instructional video of the whole process.

Final Thoughts

Buying all the pieces you need individually may cost you more than buying a cleaning kit. For a small expense, you can potentially save the cost of your sword, the last thing you want is for your blade to become rusty or to become stuck to the inside of the saya. Investing a few minutes every couple of weeks will ensure you get a lifetime of use out your blade. If you do need a new sword, check out our collection here.

It perhaps goes without saying, but extreme caution should be taken when cleaning a Katana, they are sharp and where originally designed to cause physical harm, so bear that in mind at all times.

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What is the Length of a Katana?

There is no right or wrong length for a Katana, as a sword's length will ideally match the dimensions of the wielder. However, we can make some generalisations as to what size we might expect the ‘average’ Katana to be.

Katana Measurements

A Katana is traditionally measured from the notch in the habaki to the tip of the sword, this is done in a straight line and doesn’t account for the curvature of the sword, most Katana will be in excess of 2 shaku. A shaku is a unit of measurement which is calibrated against the metric system, where 10 metres is equivalent to exactly 33 shaku, so a shaku is 33.3 cm or 11.93 inches.

Historically shaku where slightly longer, equalling 13.96 inches or 35.45 cm. This discrepancy can cause some confusion, depending on which shaku value is used and whether it’s converted to the imperial or metric system. For the sake of clarity and to keep things consistent, we’ll only use the modern measurement of a shaku.

If we take a look at the most common types of Japanese blades they can be broken down into 3 lengths:

• 1 shaku commonly used for Tanto or daggers
• 1-2 shaku often used for Wakizashi or Kodachi
• 2-3 shaku commonly used for katana

In terms of the average or most popular katana length, you can expect the average blade to be between 2.3 and 2.5 shaku or 27 and 30 inches (70 to 76 cm). The overall length of a Katana including the tsuka (handle) can be expected to between 3.3 and 3.6 shuka or 39 and 43 inches (100cm to 110cm).  The models we sell are between these ranges.

As we’ve already discussed, it’s possible to find Katana that fall well outside these averages, which doesn’t mean they are any less capable or effective. A sword which suits a 6-foot man might not be suitable for a 5-foot woman, finding a blade that suits your body dimensions is just as important as finding a quality sword.

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The Parts of a Katana | Terminology & Guide

The Katana or Samurai Sword is Japanese sword with ancient origins. Fabled for being wielded by the Samurai warrior caste, it has a long and rich history, beginning with its Chinese origins all the way up to its use in the second world war and beyond. The Katana has been forged and crafted by skills swordsmiths for hundreds of generations, evolving over time to become the sword which is now at the forefront of popular culture.

No two Samurai Swords are ever going to be identical, they’ll each have their own quirks and character imparted by the sword forging process. Traditionally, only the Samurai caste could own and wield a Katana, the punishment for breaking this law was often swift and deadly. Nowadays the Samurai no longer exist, but there is still intense regulation around the forging of Katana within Japan, with limited numbers produced per swordsmith every year.  View our collection here.

The parts of a Katana

Kashira: The kashira is the butt, pommel or knob which is found at the end of the swords handle.

Tsuka: The tsuka is the swords handle which has been tightly wrapped with a type of cloth called the tsukaito. The process of wrapping the hilt of the sword is called tsukamaki, and required a great deal of patience and skill to master. The tools required are paper, glue, cloth (ito) and of course the tsuka itself.

Samekawa: The samekawa is another form of hilt wrapping which sits under the tsukaito. It’s often made from stingray skin or occasionally shark skin. Modern versions will often use synthetic materials.

Menuki: The menuki are small decorative sculptures, often depicting animals or mythological creatures. The menuki will be placed on top of the samekawa but under the tsukaito. These ornaments would often be used show the character of the sword owner, nowaday they are purely used for aesthetic purposes.

Mekugi: The mekugi are small pegs made from bamboo that affix the swords tang in place underneath the handle. It’s important that these pegs are flexible and durable so as to remain intact when the sword is impacted.

Tang: The tang is the section of the blade that extends into the swords handle, the tang may also be called the nakago. It’s held in place by the mekugi. A full tang is highly recommended if a functional sword is required.

Fuchi: The fuchi is the metal sleeve that keeps the tsuka locked together.

Seppa: The seppa look a bit like metal washers which serve as spacers located on the sides of the handguards and they allow for the tightness of the sword handle to be adjusted.

Tsuba: The tsuba is the japanese name for the swords handguard. Often these handguards are engraved or carved with patterns or creatures to create fascinating designs. The tsuba additionally helps protect the wielder's hand from slipping from the handle onto the sword's blade.

Habaki: The habaki is the metal collar located at the base of the blade of the sword. The purpose of the habaki is to increase the swords stability and the ensure all parts fit tightly together.

Saya: The Saya or scabbard is used to protect the blade while not in use, both from the elements and to prevent accidental injury. Traditional Saya is constructed from Honoki wood, which is carved and fitted together into the desired shape. Most saya are then lacquered in order to provide a level of weatherproofing and for decorative purposes.

Sageo: The sageo is a cord the secures the saya to the warrior's side allowing for convenient and easy access.

Ken: The Ken is the name for the blade of a Japanese sword. The processes and skill involved in making a Japanese blade in the traditional manner are quite remarkable and involves many stages to go from steel billet to completed sword. Many swordsmiths in Japan spend a lifetime dedicated to the art form, striving to create the perfect sword to rival those created by the masters' swordsmiths from history. Despite advances in modern technology and better insights into steel alloys, many claims that the blades produced during the Edo period are far superior to anything produced today, however, it is intrinsically difficult to put such claims to the test given that most Edo period swords are strictly museum pieces.

The swords blade itself has several parts:

Hamon: The Hamon is the wave-like pattern formed on the edge of the blade during the differential hardening process. Today, the Hamon is often produced for aesthetic purposes only, these are generally produced with either acid etching or engraving.

Yaibi: The yaibi is the cutting edge of the blade. It is important to point out that a sword should not be oversharpened, doing so can decrease the effectiveness of its cutting ability as well as posing unnecessary dangers to the user.

Kissaki: The kissaki is the chisel tip at the end of the sword. A well-formed, sharpened and polished kissaki is a good indication of a quality sword. 

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How Much Does a Katana Weigh?

If you’re thinking about buying a Katana, you might be wondering to yourself, how much does a katana weigh? The answer is perhaps not as straightforward as it might first appear, with numerous factors influencing the final weight such as materials used, length, thickness and width. We can make a ballpark approximation based on the various weights we’ve come across, but any individual Katana may fall well outside this range.

Katana Weight

Most Katana are between 900 grams and 1400 grams (2lbs to 3.1lbs), with the average Katana weighing in at 1200 grams (1.2kg or 2.65 lbs). Historical Katana’s made using traditional methods tend to be slightly heavier than modern-day counterparts, but there are so many factors influencing the weight of a Katana that it’s difficult to make a sweeping statement as to how heavy a Katana should be.

Most of the Katana we sell are between 1000 grams and 1200 grams, these figures vary from sword to sword, as the sword forging process is as much an art as it is a science. The saya will add approximately 100 – 200 grams to the final weight of the sword, but this again differs from saya to saya. You can click here to see our range.

Materials

Not all steels weigh the same amount for the volume of space occupied. Some modern-day steel alloys incorporate other metals that can decrease the mass of the final product without affecting the structural integrity. For example, magnesium steel alloys are significantly lighter than many common steels and don’t sacrifice strength to achieve this lightness. Many of these newer steels are not commonly available for the production of swords, but we would expect this to change as the technology spreads, which could result in a significant decrease in the weight of katana.

As it stands just now, there’s not a significant difference between the weight of the metals used in production swords. The size, shape and amount of steel used is the biggest influencing factor at present.

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1060 Carbon Steel Guide

Steel is available in several flavours, while we’re all mostly familiar with stainless steel, there are actually more than 100 types of steel alloy available. Steel can be used in an incredible amount of industrial applications, varying in hardness, toughness and flexibility depending on the levels of additional compounds mixed into the alloy. These variations mean one type of steel is ideal for shock absorbers, while another is better suited to cutlery. Every steel contains at least some carbon, the amount present varies depending on what the steel is to be used for.

1060 Steel Properties

1060 carbon steel is a commonly available general purpose steel which is frequently used in a range of engineering applications where extreme toughness and strength are not major concerns. It’s designated as medium carbon content, containing 0.60% carbon. It’ll frequently be used in automotive parts such as axles, shafts, pistons, gears and clutches. Owing to its availability, adequate toughness and reasonable mailability, the steel is often used in the production of swords. Other steels in the 10xx range may contain more or less carbon, generally speaking, the lower the final two numbers, the less carbon is present and the softer the resulting steel will be. 1060 carbon steel offers a reasonable balance between hardness, mailability and affordability.

1060 Steel for Swords

1060 steel swords can take a decent edge which will additionally be resistant to wear and tear, meaning less time required for sharpening. However, as with all carbon steels, it may rust if not cared for correctly. All of our swords are delivered with a think coating of oil which stops the oxidization of the steel. This coating must be maintained to avoid rusting. If rust spots do appear they can be easily removed with a bit of patience and some very fine sandpaper.

1060 steel is less brittle than other steels with a higher carbon content and it presents an excellent balance between toughness and flexibility. The steel can be sharpened with very little effort and it will remain sharp through continued use. However, as with all swords, they must be handled correctly and professionally, taking due care to use proper techniques. A mishandled blade can snap or cause serious physical harm.

In order to create an even harder cutting edge, 1060 steel can be differentiated hardened, which creates a tough cutting edge and a flexible spine. This process must be professionally performed so as to avoid weakening the structural integrity of the blade.

CARING FOR 1060 STEEL

To ensure your sword lasts a lifetime of use, it’s important to perform regular maintenance, this will prevent rust spots from forming and ensure the blade remains functionally sharp. After every use, wipe the blade clean to ensure all fingerprints are removed, as well as other contaminants. Take the time to lightly oil the blade every fortnight with mineral oil or oil specifically designed for swords. If you intend to store the sword for any length of time, then coating the blade with vaseline or Renaissance is a great choice. These substances create a barrier which prevents the oxygen from reacting with the iron content of the blade. Additionally, a coating of oil provides a nice shiny finish for the sword,

In order to keep your sword in tip-top condition and rust free for as long as possible, a few minutes of maintenance every week is recommended. Wipe the blade clean after every use to remove fingerprints, dust, and other contaminants, and ensure it’s oiled at least once a fortnight. If long-term storage is required, consider coating the blade in vaseline or Renaissance which has been specifically designed to preserve items. The oil creates a physical barrier from the elements such as water and oxygen from reaching the blade and will prevent rusting. The coating of oil will also give the sword a nice shine.

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What is T10 Steel?

T10 is a type of tool steel, which perhaps unsurprisingly is used in many manufacturing processes. As with all tool steels, they must be able to withstand significant pressures and temperatures, which makes them ideally suited for sword use.

Tools steels are made to withstand repeated impacts at a range of extreme temperatures without losing their endurance characteristics, which is why they are so well suited to use in industrial settings.

There are numerous flavors of tool steels available, most of which function in a similar manner, while others are specifically made to meet niche requirements.

T10 Steel

With regards to t10 steel, the T, in this case, signifies that it’s a High-Speed steel with a Tungsten Base. High-Speed tool steels include tungsten (t1 to t15) and the molybdenum (M1 to M52) steel alloys. These allow are characterized by their ability to be hardened to 62 to 67 HRC. while maintaining this hardness through significant temperature ranges, up to 1004°F, which means they are particularly well suited to high-speed machinery (hence the name). These steel alloys are commonly employed in drills, lathes, routers, and saws. The 10 in T10 signifies the carbon content, which ranges between 0.95% and 1.05%. The T types of steel start at T1` which is between 0.05% and 0.15% carbon content, all the way up to T15 which typically has a carbon content of between 1.2% and 1.3%.

It is often the case that forges will not completely understand or know what type of steel they are selling to people. There is a distinct lack of publicly available and easily understood information published, which can result in T10 tool steel being lumped in and sold as something which is largely identical to the more popular and better-understood carbon steels such as 1060 or 1095. However, there is an important distinction to make between these steel types, both in endurance, strength, and ability to resist scratches and marking.

T10 steel is perhaps one of the strongest and most suitable carbon steels that we are easily able to obtain for sword use. Its characteristics and properties are not only suitable for tools, but it can create a superb sword as well.

Pretty much any steel can be worked and sharpened to hold an edge, but most are unable to hold a candle to T10’s edge holding ability. A T10 edge will remain for a significant amount of time without additional sharpening requires, it’ll also resist most types of abrasive damage which is common to swords that are used for cutting. Additionally, T10 will remain impact resistant and allow for the stresses normally produced when performing a cut to be easily absorbed without any compromises made to the integrity of the blade.

Most high carbon steels will lose a portion of their carbon content during the forging process, heating and quenching repeatedly will inevitably reduce the overall carbon levels. In a practical sense, this means that that steel that was 1095 will normally end up with a lesser carbon content once it’s been forged into a sword. With regards to T10, it has been specifically designed to retain its carbon content at high temperatures. This allows for a sword made out of T10 steel to be hardened significantly more than a normal production sword.

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What is Tamahagane Steel?

Tamahagane is a steel originating from Japan which often used to create traditional Japanese swords. In a metallurgical sense, the metal is primarily made up of two parts, steel ore, and carbon. The steel ore originates from iron sand and the carbon is derived from charcoal. These two components are heated and smelted in a traditional bloomery, which is also known as the Tatara. Once this mix is sufficiently heated the two components are melted into a steel slag called Tamahagane.

Tamahagane

The process used to create Tamahagane is quite labor intensive and it’s carefully regulated and supervised by the NBTHK (Nittoho) organization. Only steel made in the traditional manner and in an authentic Tatara (which there is only a handful left in the country) can be called tamahagane. The NBTHK also control the sale and regulate the distribution of iron sand ore sand, ensuring all resulting steel meets their strict guidelines.

A ‘Nittoho Tatara’ is only allowed to be lit for a three week period in the deepest part of winter, this ensures the humidity is at its lowest which creates a purer steel. During this three week period of activity, each forge can create a maximum of three batches of steel, with each batch taking 7 days to process and complete.

Due to the very limited and regulated supply of Tamahagane, prices are extremely high and competition between sword smiths to acquire the steel is fierce. Due to this limited supply of traditional steel, many smiths will use a steel blend called orishigane (leftovers). These leftovers can be made up from old nails, steel shavings and other types of iron-containing materials. By supplementing the steel with additional charcoal, the swordsmiths are able to control the amount of carbon present in the resulting Oroshigane steel ore. Most traditional swordsmiths will use smaller versions of the Tatara, which are often bespoke made by the swordsmiths themselves.

Due to the heavy regulation imposed on Tamahagane production by both the government and the NBTHK corporation, it’s very unlikely that any swordsmiths that are not registered will be able to acquire Nittoho Tamahagane.

Anyone that is located outside of Japan is free to create their own Tatara and smelt tamahagane. However, the traditional iron sand (ore) that is used in the production of Nittoho tamahane is only found in the Northern tip of Japan. The sand (satetsu) is unique in terms of chemical makeup and color (green / brown), and it’s these impurities that give Tamahagane it’s unique visual feel and looks. So, even if you have your own forge up and running, you’ll not be able to replicate the coloration and features present in genuine Tamagane without access to the genuine iron ore sand.

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Is 1095 Steel Any Good?

Steel doesn’t just come in one type, in fact, there are more than a dozen types of steel in common use today. This is largely due to the variety of functions that steel is used for. It is mixed and alloyed with a variety of compounds and metals, these combinations affect the properties of the steel making it better suited to certain tasks, which is why so much effort is made in creating the types we have available today. Carbon is found in every steel type, regardless of the purpose, while the exact amount of carbon present varies depending on what the intended purpose of the steel is.

1095 Steel Properties

1095 Steel is a standard type of carbon steel and it is most often used in the forging of swords and knives. The 95 in the name of the steel indicates the carbon content, in this case, it’s 0.95% carbon content. The inclusion of carbon helps harden the steel and toughens the resulting blades, making them more impervious to wear and tear over time. Despite the toughness provided by the carbon content, other types of steel are tougher still due to increased levels of manganese. The trade-off with higher manganese levels is a more brittle blade, which has an increased chance of snapping or shattering.

1095 Steel for Swords

1095 steel, when forged into a sword is capable of holding an excellent edge and are straightforward to sharpen. However, if not cared for correctly, the steel can easily rust. Often swords will be delivered with a coating of oil which helps prevent rusting, it’s important to maintain this coating over time to avoid unsightly rust spots. Any rust that does occur can usually be removed with some very fine sandpaper and a bit of patience.

1095 steel is often more brittle than steels with lower carbon content, so it’s quite well suited for blades which are not too think, swords are an ideal fit due to their robust nature. They are very easy to sharpen and will maintain the edge through use. However, proper techniques and methods must be used when using a 1095 carbon steel sword, a misplaced cut or mishandled strike can lead to a snapped blade.

1095 can be differentiated hardened to create an ever harder cutting edge and more flexible spine, but care must be taken in this process to avoid weakening the overall strength of the blade. Even though 1095 steel is a great choice for swords, it can be frequently found in thicker knives. If so inclined, it is possible to polish 1095 steel to create a shiny blade, while other metals such as Stainless steel are better suited to polishing, 1095 can take a polish with a little bit of effort.

Caring for 1095 Steel

In order to keep your sword in tip-top condition and rust free for as long as possible, a few minutes of maintenance every week is recommended. Wipe the blade clean after every use to remove fingerprints, dust, and other contaminants, and ensure it’s oiled at least once a fortnight. If long-term storage is required, consider coating the blade in vaseline or Renaissance which has been specifically designed to preserve items. The oil creates a physical barrier from the elements such as water and oxygen from reaching the blade and will prevent rusting. The coating of oil will also give the sword a nice shine.

Other Uses for 1095

As we’ve already established, 1095 steel is perfect for functional swords such as Katana and Wakizashi. It’s also well suited for daggers and replica blades. Other types of steel such as stainless are better suited to display only pieces or to be used as utensils, this is due to the rust resistance this type of steel has natively. 1095 may also be used in machetes or gardening tools. Any application that requires a wear resistant sharp blade may benefit from 1095 steel. It is our recommended choice for anyone that needs a functional blade.

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Legandary Swords from History

History is jam-packed full of stories, legends, fables and rumours of mystical and powerful swords. Quite often, the weapons described in these tales have a certain amount of grounding in reality. In this article we’ve brought together 10 of the most fascinating legendary swords from history, each has an interesting if not fully understood saga with tales of incredible feats, mystery and intrigue.

The Sword in the Stone

The legend of Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table is known to be a tale with more myth and legend rather than facts. However, a small sanctuary located in Monte Siepi, Italy plays host to a real world ‘Sword in the Stone’. The legend states that the sword once belonged to a 12th century Tuscan Cavalier who later became Saint Galgano. Before the sainthood stuff happened, Archangel Michael appeared to Galgano and ordered him to cease his sinful ways.

Galgan being a man that enjoyed a little bit of sin now and then protested at the Archangels demands, saying that stopping his ways would be as stabbing a stone with a sword. In order to illustrate his point, he thrust his weapon at a nearby bolder, but rather than snapping, then buried itself in the stone all the way up to the hilt where it remains to this day. Needless to say that Galgan turned his life around and even became a Saint in the process. It’s easy to understand why this sword is often considered to be the inspiration for the legend of Excalibur.

The Kusanagi

The Kusanagi is a true mystery with very little in the way of solid evidence and a very mysterious mythical origin story. According to the well-known folklore, Kusanagi or the “Sword in the Snake”, was originally retrieved from the remains of an eight-headed serpent which had met its demise at the hands of the god of seas and storms. This is understandably a little bit out there in terms of verified histories, however, the sword in all likelihoods did exist. It’s an essential component in the ceremony and imperial regalia of Japan. The sword is meant to be a sign that the imperial family is descended from the sun god and cements their right to a rule. 

Legend also states that a monk stole the sword during the 6th century but it was later lost at sea when the monk’s boat sank. A group of dedicated Shinto priests recovered the sword from the seabed and it was returned to the imperial family.
Given that the sword has not been seen since and the priests refuse to let it see the light of day, in all likelihood the sword remains lost.

Durandal

For millennia a mysterious sword has been lodged into the cliffs located behind and above the Notre Dame chapel located in Rocamadour, France. The legend states that the sword was previously owned by the paladin Roland, who had named the sword Durandal. 

When surrounded and with little chance of escape or victory, Roland is said to have thrown the sword at the cliffs in order to save it from being taken and used by his enemy. The sword pierced the cliffs and remains there to this day. 
The chapel is something of a pilgrimage site with many making the journey to pray and see the sword with their own eyes. The sword was temporary moved in 2011 for an exhibit taking place in the Cluny Museum in Paris.

The Cursed Muramasa

The Muramasa swords are a fascinating piece of history. The tale goes that Muramasa wanted to his swords to be the most prestigious weapons around. He was already an accomplished swordsmith, but he increased their potency by praying for his swords to become ‘prodigious destroyers’.

As the gods were already impressed by his significant skill as a swordsmith they imbued his weapons with a malevolent and dangerous spirit with a lust for blood. If the blades were not regularly sated with combat they would eventually drive the owner to commit atrocious murders or commit suicide. There are many tales of previous owners being driven mad and being killed out of necessity. Such was the conviction that the swords were cursed that an imperial decree forbade the swords from being owned by anyone. 

Many examples still exist today, so even if you can’t own a cursed sword you can still see one.

St. Peter’s Sword

There are more than a few legends surrounding the sword said to have been used by Saint Peter to slice off the ear of a deserving high priest in the Gethsemane gardens. One version of the story has the sword being transported to England by Joseph of Arimathea accompanied by the Holy Grail.

However, there is another version of the story which has the Bishop of Jordan taking the sword to Poland in 968 AD. The Bishop’s sword is considered by many to be the authentic version and is now relocated to the Archdiocese Museum in Poznan. 

The Wallace Sword

If you’ve seen the film Braveheart then you’re probably well aware of the story of William Wallace and his rebellion against the English. What you might not know is that there are rumours that William Wallace used the flesh and skin from a defeated opponent to create the sheath, hilt and belt. The unlucky donor was said to have been Hugh de Cressingham who was defeated by Wallace at the battle of Stirling Bridge.

Other twists on the same tale say that Wallace and his comrades used Cressinghams skin for their sword sashes and flesh for their saddle girths. However, modern analysis of the Wallace sword indicates that this is unlikely to be the case.

The Sword of Goujian

In 1965, and absolutely outstanding discovery was made when a pristine sword was unearthed in a moist tomb in China. Despite the swords dating back nearly 2000 years not a hint of rust or corrosion was found on the sword, despite the unfavourable conditions it was stored in.

Additionally, the blade remained exceptionally sharp, a point that was proven when an archaeologist cut his finger when testing the edge of the blade. The workmanship of the sword was incredibly detailed and used techniques and methods that many believed didn’t come into existence for many hundreds of years later. 

The sword is engraved which translated as ‘King of Yue" and "made this sword for his personal use’.

While it is true that sword incorporated methods which would provide some protection against corrosion, the real reason why it’s barely aged is down to some good fortune. The scabbard of the sword was able to create an airtight seal around the sword which prevented the elements from reaching the blade. It’s for this reason why it lasted so long and in such good condition.

The Seven-Branched Sword

In 1945 a very mysterious and unusual sword was found in Japan’s Isonokami shrine. The sword was a peculiar design, boasting six protrusions from the sides of the sword. The sword itself is well weathered and the inscriptions are hard to decipher, but it is thought that the sword was presented to the Japanese monarchy by the King of Korea.

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Antique Swords: An Introduction to Japanese Swords & Their Preservation

It was through a series of unfortunate events, during WWII, that the Japanese history, particularly the tradition of their swords, came into prominence. Classifying Japanese Swords has been an extremely debated subject and it still engages many conflicting views. For the uninitiated, a Japanese sword represents a technical innovation that was at least a century ahead of its generation. Unlike swords used in other parts of Asia and the Western World, it was able to combine three parameters deemed incompatible by most sword-makers, i.e. being indestructible, having intense slicing capability and uncompromising firmness. Further, Japanese swords were able to blend these qualities and yet present the sword as a distinctly maneuverable weapon.

Historically, the Japanese people have always looked upon their swords as a symbol of personal and family pride. Even the basic etiquette regimen in just carrying a sword is so demanding that it takes years for one to comprehend it. It is believed that the Samurai warriors were so obsessed with protecting their swords that they would try to breathe at a certain distance away from the top blade, ensuring that no moisture would touch upon it. Therefore, it only seems fair that contemporary collectors of Japanese swords are familiar with the basics of such revered objects, considering that these aren't just artifacts but symbols of a proud legacy.

Japanese Sword Care Basics

Often called the Nipponto, every Japanese sword has a scabbard or the casing, also called the saya. Swords are often presented in wooden sayas and many of them are adorned with handcrafted embellishments. Collectors should ensure that the head of the saya, called the kojiri, should always be the first to enter the casing. Though this is regarded as a way to prevent damage from accidental falls, it also represents a mannerism endorsed by generations of Samurai warriors.

The scabbard should tightly fit around the sword, particularly around the opening. If this is not so, chances are that the sword under consideration has been excessively tampered with. Around the opening of the scabbard is the collar or the Habaki of the Nipponto. When pulling out the sword, ensure that the sword is first partially drawn, i.e. at par with the length of the Habaki. Only then, the sword should be completely pulled out. A single, forceful pulling can be extremely damaging and it can harm the collar configuration beyond redemption.

Once the sword has been partially pulled, the blade has to be held firmly, ensuring that the slicing edge does not face either sideways or downwards. This is not only the preferred method of pulling the sword from a preservation perspective but also a traditional custom of Japanese swordsmanship. This is also the safest, forward-holding position for drawing out the Nipponto. When placing back the sword into its scabbard, the tip of a sword, with its cutting-edge pointing up, has to be rested gently on the scabbard's opening for a moment before being firmly pushed-in. When doing so, feeling an obstruction around the collar is expected - a small, firm nudge is needed to make the sword edge past the collar and slide inside its casing.

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The Western Sword and the Katana

Over the years that have followed World War II, an obsession for Japanese martial arts and Japanese martial history has grown in the United States. One of the most important symbols of this martial history is the katana (the samurai sword). This sword has been given so much credit, mainly as a result of WWII propaganda films, that it has overshadowed much Western martial history. Life is always divided into binaries. The binaries are often handled like an equation. If you add to one side of an equation, you must balance that equation by subtracting from the other side. Sadly, this has happened with the historical ideas associated with the western sword and the eastern sword. However, despite some popular belief, the western sword was not an inferior weapon to that of the eastern sword.
The western sword has been demoted in status over the years. Some popular belief lists the western sword as a clunky, heavy weapon designed for hacking and slashing without control. It is not seen in the same light as the katana, which is viewed as a versatile, light, elegant weapon by many people. However, the strengths of the western sword should be noted in comparison to the katana in order to discard some of the myths surrounding both weapons.

The flexibility of the western sword.

The western sword was designed for longevity. As such, the steel was made softer, allowing for more flexibility and thus, a longer life. For instance, the claymore, a Scottish broadsword, should ideally bend quite far and return to its original form after being released. It should act as a spring. The katana, however, is a much more rigid weapon, with far less flexibility than the western sword. Both swords have their strengths. The rigidity of the katana derived from a harder steel allows for a finer cutting edge. The harder the steel, the sharper the cutting edge can be. Thus, the katana, on a whole, might be sharper than the western blade. However, the western blade could suffer much more abuse before breaking. We must also take into account the small amount of pressure, 3 lbs, that it takes to cut skin. It is not necessary to have an excessively sharp blade.

Folding versus not folding

One of the first things mentioned about the katana is often the process of folding the steel, thus homogenizing the steel and making a better blade. However, what is not often mentioned is the necessity for this process. In Japan, iron was much rarer and was of lower quality than in Europe. The folding of the blade was necessary to take bad iron and work it into a decent steel. The katana, when this iron is taken into account, is an amazing feat of engineering. However, the western sword did not have this problem. With better iron available, and advanced steelworking techniques, the western sword was strong enough, and the steel was homogenized enough, to work without the folding. Folding does not denote a better sword.

Weight

As the katana became more and more popular, the myth of the western sword's extreme weight also became more prevalent. I have heard a variety of weights listed for a western long sword, from 8 - 25 lbs. These weights, when considered in a reasonable light, are ridiculous. The average western sword would weigh no more than 3 lbs. Obviously, this would make the weapon just as versatile as the katana.

Although many myths have arisen on both sides of the equation, it is important to, before talking about swords in any form, research the subject. I have heard the weight of a western longsword listed as 18 lbs by a highly educated college instructor in Renaissance literature. Obviously, these myths are widely spread, but it just isn't the truth.

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Myths vs. Realities of the Katana

Katana are popularly conceived of as "the best" swords ever made. While they are certainly effective blades, much of their modern status over other sword types owes more to the entertainment industry than the realities of swordsmithing and combat. The swords, also known as "samurai swords" and loosely defined as curved, single-bladed Japanese swords with blades at least two feet long, have a variety of near-magical properties ascribed to them, often with little explanation given. There are, however, some rationales that are used to provide a basis for the swords' supposed prowess. Though these reasons may sound convincing, by and large, they are either inaccurate or misleading.
First and foremost, it is important to question the base assumption that there can be a single "best" sword, as it ignores the important question, "best at what?" Every sword made and used in every part of the world throughout history was designed in response to unique conditions and made for specific uses. Differences of terrain, available ore, enemy weaponry, armor, mounted or unmounted combat, and numerous other considerations have shaped every sword (and indeed, every weapon) ever made to attempt to be the best possible weapon for the given situation. No single sword design could ever be the overall "best," as any design will fail if placed in conditions far removed from those it was intended for.

Below are some of the most common rationales cited for katana being superior to other sword styles.

Myth: The folded steel and partial heat-treating make them much stronger than other swords.

Reality: Folding or otherwise layering blades and differential tempering (heat-treating the edge but not the spine of the blade) are neither uniquely Japanese techniques nor even actually Japanese in origin. Both techniques spread to Japan from China, where they had been developed and were already in steady use. The same techniques either developed independently or were spread via trade routes in many cultures around the world as a method of solving the universal problem of unhardened steel being too soft to hold an edge well and hardened steel is too brittle to make a whole sword from.

Myth: Their blade curvature is perfectly designed for cutting.
Reality: The curvature of each katana blade may vary substantially, depending on the style, time period and maker. Generally, katana are only slightly curved, but more deeply curved examples are known. The curvature is also by no means unique to the katana, as most sword-making cultures around the world have made curved blades of some variety. It is also important to note that the curvature is a trade-off, relinquishing some of the strengths of a straight sword (such as ease of thrusting) for the extra slicing ability granted by the curve.

Myth: The convex or "apple-seed" blade profile allows them to cut deeper than others.
Reality: As with blade curvature, the convex blade profile (judged by looking at the sword point-first) is both a trade-off and by no means unique to Japanese blades. There are three basic blade profiles, each used for differing situations, and each found in blades from all over the world: convex, flat, and concave. Convex blades are generally more effective against armor as they resist damage better as well as cutting deeper as the curvature and extra weight helps the slicing action of the blade, but are somewhat more difficult to actually achieve a cut within the first place, as they are effectively duller than other types. Concave blade profiles are easier to cut with and can be much sharper than others, but are much more prone to breaking and not as easy to slice deeply with. Flat blade profiles are essentially a compromise between these two.

Myth: They are much sharper than other cultures' swords.
Reality: This myth is perpetuated in large part due to the modern sword manufacturers themselves. Since there is generally more demand for katana than other historical swords, it is often easier to find sharp, well-made katana than a similarly high-quality English or Chinese sword, leading to the misinterpretation that duller blades were historically common in these cultures, when in reality sword sharpness was relatively consistent around the world.

Myth: They were produced with better steel.
Reality: Japan has never been home to large, high-quality deposits of iron ore, making the widespread production of steel fit for swords problematic. Japanese smiths were able to compensate for this through careful smelting, but high-quality steel was very expensive. This led to one area in which katana historically truly have excelled: craftsmanship. With little steel to waste and a higher incentive to prevent imperfections that could lead to sword breakage, Japanese swordsmiths historically focused more on perfecting each blade than did smiths in countries where a broken sword could easily be replaced.

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How to Display Samurai Swords

A Katana is a Japanese sword. The Katana was most notably used by the Samurai during the Japanese medieval period. I recently was fortunate enough to be a given a collection of Katanas. The swords have a long curved blade and were encased beautiful yet simple scabbards. I knew it was important to display them properly. I did a little research here's how to display Samurai swords. Quick note, Samurai swords should always be cleaned and oiled before storage.
Proper Storage On Stands

Whether you are storing Katana, Tanto or other Samurai swords, you might consider using a sword stand or saya. Wooden stands or saya are often used for displaying Katana. The saya keeps the sword from warping. Display the sword with the blade facing upward. It's traditional to do so in case of the soldier had to draw and strike quickly. Always keep your swords housed in their cases. Displaying raw blades is dangerous as Katana or Samurai swords are extremely sharp. The handle or Tsuka of the sword should be displayed on the right side of the stand if you are right-handed. If the warrior is left handed then the sword is displayed with the handle to the left. You can use floor stands, tables stand or display stands that hang on the wall.

Katana Dansu

The Japanese have lovely storage cabinets called Tansu or Dansu. The storage chests used for displaying Samurai swords is called Katana Dansu. This type of chest is typically made from cedar and is handcrafted. The lid of the chest should be made of glass so that the swords can be easily seen and enjoyed by all who come to visit.

Display Order for Katana

If you are displaying many Katana or Samurai swords then you should be aware that there is a particular order. If you are using a stand that has many different sword positions available then you need to display from the top to the bottom. The top display position goes to the smallest sword often called the Tanto. The middle position of the saya goes to the Wakizashi which is not as long as the last sword, the Katana. The Katana should be displayed in the bottom position and all sword handles should face the same direction.

Always clean your sword and oil it before returning it to its scabbard. This should be done at least twice a year.

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5 Classic 1960's Summer Samurai Films

Summertime and swordplay just seem to go together. Here are 5 samurai-themed films that I picked for their slashing swordfight action, not necessarily for particularly complex plotting. These are energetic entertainment from the classic era of the chambara* movie in Japan (the sword-swingin' sixties)! These movies are only offered as the Japanese language with English subtitles unless there are some old VHS dubbed versions floating around that I don't know about, but for samurai flicks that is the way I like it. My choices here reflect my bias for the mid-to-late Tokugawa era jidai geki settings (around 1800-1868 or so). So without more ado, let's get past the staredown and proceed straight to the quick draw!

1. Zatoichi at the Fire Festival (1969): Shintaro Katsu's blind swordsman Ichi is matched here against a yakuza boss who is equally blind and delightfully evil; Katsu was adept at pathos AND bathos, i.e., grotesque comedy, and it shows here in a romp directed by Kenji Misumi, the man behind many of the Lone Wolf and Cub films and several other Zatoichi flicks. His films are colorful and packed with energetic swordfights. This is no exception. Watch for transvestite actor Peter as he tries to seduce Ichi, and some repeated encounters with angry, sword-swinging Tatsuya Nakadai, who wants to kill Ichi but not just yet -- an action-packed romp with some great set pieces. Probably the most fun to watch of all the Zatoichi films in my opinion.

2. Yojimbo (1961): Akira Kurosawa's light-hearted but gritty (in a Western way) tale of a ronin named Sanjuro (Toshiro Mifune) who pits one yakuza gang against another in a rundown late Tokugawa era town (the year is 1860, just before the Meiji Restoration). There's lots of posturing and plotting going on, but all you need to know is that Mifune is playing one side against the other, and most of them are dumb enough to fall for it. The only man in town with a gun (Tatsuya Nakadai) is also the only man in town with brains. He catches on to Sanjuro's scheme and the showdown begins!

3. Nemuri Kyoshiro 4: Sword of Seduction (1964). Nemuri Kyoshiro roughly translates as "Sleepy Eyes of Death," which is its American series release title. There are several Kyoshiros, but the one everyone knows is played by Raizo Ichikawa, once called the "James Dean of Japan." He has a laconic manner and a melodic, deep voice that can menace or seduce. Kyoshiro is a half-breed, born of a Christian father and a Japanese mother. His trademark is his deep red hair and his secret Full Moon cut, which no swordsman has witnessed and survived. As sure as Mifune's Sanjuro inspired the "Man With No Name" of Clint Eastwood's spaghetti westerns, so Ichikawa's Kyoshiro follows in the same mold, except Kyoshiro tends to get laid a whole lot more. He also seems to be an eternal target. So expect lots of seductions and swordfights in this number 4 entry in which he is called upon to protect a Christian nun who has a few secrets of her own. Look for a rousing appearance by "Lone Wolf and Cub" leading man Tomisaburo Wakayama as Chinese boxer Chen Sun. Always a joy to watch!

4. Sword of Doom (Daibosatsu Toge, 1966): OK, this movie does have a complicated historical plot featuring the Shinsengumi and a bizarre karma theme, but you don't HAVE to watch it on that level. You can enjoy it on a simple level of watching Tatsuya Nakadai as Ryunosuke, a badass, amoral swordsman with the baddest of bad attitudes. He enjoys sake and killing, not necessarily in that order. I tried compiling a body count for this movie once and came up with 88. Not a record, but for sheer style and doggedness, no one beats Nakadai! Watch for Nakadai's traditional archnemesis, Toshiro Mifune, in a small but memorable role as a sword instructor who embodies the heroic ideal of "the sword is the soul." Note for those of you in anger management courses: you might be cheesed off at the ending of this one, but as someone who is familiar with the source material, I find the ending of this film quite appropriate.

5. Red Lion (Akage, 1969): It is 1868, and the Tokugawa Shogunate is on its way out, while the new Imperial forces are making their way up the major highways from Kyoto to Edo (old Tokyo) to proclaim their new order and gain support. A bumpkin farmer named Gonzo (Toshiro Mifune) wants nothing more than to bring the message to his home village after his 10-year absence and make a name for himself in the process, while overthrowing the corrupt Tokugawa officials that have, in his view, ruined the town. He finds out that all is not as it seems, and the Imperials are not the godsend he thought they would be. Some people find this film to be socialist or intricate in its plotting, but it has enough broad comedy and action to overcome that, in my opinion. Etsushi Takahashi as the obligatory taciturn samurai bodyguard who is willing to wait til Gonzo gets it together to face him if the Imperials and the Shogun's men don't get there first!

Yojimbo and Sword of Doom are widely available, and both have been given the Criterion Collection treatment.

*Chambara, also spelled "chanbara" is a Japanese term for a swordplay film, a subgroup of jidaigeki, which is a historical film, television show or play (usually Edo period:1603-1868).

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Samurai Swords: A Quick & Easy Guide

If you put together all of the deadliest weapons in human history, the most recognizable one would probably be the samurai sword. Although samurai swords have been gaining popularity lately through outlets like television and Hollywood, the weapon has been around for centuries. Originating in Japan, it has been one of the most recognized symbols of the country. Synonymous with strength and beauty, many feel that the samurai sword is the crown jewel of Japanese culture.

Samurai Swords

There are three main types of samurai swords, however probably the most famous is the Katana. The Katana is a sword with a long, curved blade that has a cutting edge on only one side. It came into being sometime in the late 10th century, with its original purpose being a weapon for surprise attacks. Soldiers would carry them at their belts in battle with the cutting edge facing up.

During the age of the Samurai, swords were paired together and worn at the side as a symbol of status. Only if you were a samurai could you wear a pair of swords? All samurai wore a Katana. However, the second sword was chosen and worn as a matter of taste. The Katana could be paired with one of two additional swords, a Wakizashi, or a Tanto.

A Wakizashi is a shorter sword than the Katana and when used in concert it is an effective tool for defense. Most times a Wakizashi was worn with the Katana if the particular practitioner of swordsmanship was a student of a particular "two-sword" style, like that of Miyamoto Musashi.

The other sword that could be worn with a Katana was more of a knife than a sword. The Tanto was a short blade not usually longer than eleven or twelve inches in length, that was carried as an instrument for committing "hara-kiri" or a type of ritual suicide. Hara-kiri, or Seppuku, was enacted when a samurai had dishonored himself in some way and was done by sticking the Tanto into the left side of the abdomen and then dragging the blade upwards towards the heart and then to the right towards the lungs, thereby severing most major organs and ensuring an honorable death.

Once again, either the Wakizashi or the Tanto could be paired with the Katana and worn on the left side.

Traditional samurai swords are made out of a special Japanese steel called Tamahagane. During the forging process, two different consistencies of Tamahagane are added together to form the finished product. A harder outer steel is used to provide the sword with a hard and sharp cutting edge that will not dent or fracture easily. The harder steel is then wrapped around a softer inner core steel that allows the blade to absorb the energy of impacts thereby adding to the longevity and durability of the sword.

After their forging, traditional Japanese swords are then sent to a polisher who sharpens and hones the edge of the blade to its final razor-sharpness. Japanese sword polishers spend years apprenticing and improving their skills under a teacher before they are certified and allowed to do such things on their own. It takes on average five to six years to become a licensed Japanese sword polisher, and even then it takes longer to be called a master.

After the polishing of the blade is complete, it is fitted with a handle and a scabbard. Each of which is custom made by professionals in the respective areas. Only after the fittings are complete can a traditional samurai sword be considered complete.

Buying a Samurai Sword

In recent years the market for Japanese swords has grown, partly due to the massive flooding of cheap stainless Chinese knockoffs, that is ONLY MEANT FOR DISPLAY! In no way are these cheapo Chinese swords functional or intended for use at all. However, it is still possible to find functional samurai swords at affordable prices. Although not always traditional Japanese swords (by definition being made in Japan), they are made using the same methods and materials as higher priced traditional swords. Manufacturers such as Musashi Swords, Masahiro/Ryumon, Shinwa, United Cutlery, and C.A.S. Hanwei offer fully functional Japanese-style swords at affordable prices.

Although most traditional Japanese Katana's have traveled to the realm of Antiquity and sword collectors, it is still possible for the modern day sword enthusiast to find and buy Japanese-style swords at affordable prices. Who knows, you might stumble upon something better than you bargained for. Keep your eyes and ear open. Traditional Japanese swords do turn up every once and a while. You just have to be patient.

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The Soul of the Samurai is His Sword

I didn't know the first thing about swords. However about 7 years ago, my father in law gave me a World War II Japanese Officers Sword. To me, it looked like some sort of Army surplus item. That was until I started to look into the history of it and others.

There are two types of swords. They are handmade and machine made. The handmade swords are a lot more valuable than the machine made swords. The one I have is machine made. It was brought back by a GI from Okinawa. To him, it was a souvenir of the war. It sat in his closet until he gave it to my father in law shortly before his death. It was then passed on to me.

For some time, I just left in my closet. One day, I came across an article on the Internet about swords. It spurred my interest to get it out and examine it. To my amazement, I found that the blade was in excellent shape except for one small niche on it. When I removed the handle, I discovered Japanese marks on both sides of the blade in the handle area. I took pictures of it and emailed them off to a professional. I discovered that it was made in 1939 and that it had the signature of the man who made it by machine. His name was Take Hisa. As I researched his name, I did come across it as a sword maker before World War II. To this date, I have discovered nothing else about the name or the man.

PBS and Nova have aired a documentary on the mystic of the Samurai Sword. Some of the highlights were based on the overall construction process of the sword. There will also be a lot of history in the use of the sword throughout the program.

The sword is basically made up of two types of steel. The Samurai sword is designed for both piercing and slashing. The word for Sword in Japanese is called nihonto. The making of the sword is an art form all to itself. There have been many precious and beautiful swords made. Some are made for show alone. Still others were made for one reason only and that being the art of war. The struggle for land in about 200 BC brought the rise of the Samurai.

Emperor Keiko was the first to be called a Shogun ( barbarian subduing General). His son was Yamoto. It is he, that the major idea of the Samurai comes from. Samurai practiced the way of "Bushido" (the way of the warrior). The philosophy of the Bushido was "free from fear." Even the fear of death. The Samurai moved from being fighters on horseback to fighters on foot. Although they used spears and the bow, their number one weapon was the sword. They would polish it and care for it. A great honor was bestowed on it and it's value. The sword was held in very high honor, the samurai was ranked at the top of the social order. Only landowners and emperors were higher in prestige.

The swords maker would always place markings on the steel. Some would have the date of the swords beginning and their name as well as the families name that helped make it. Sometimes the design would be to show the greatness of the family in ownership of the sword.

Down through the years like anything else, the design of the sword would change. Some went from very straight to a slight curve in them. Also, some swords would use carbon in their structure. Some would combine iron and carbon to make the sword stronger.

Regardless of its makeup, the sword was considered very precious to those that used them. As time went on, the makeup and designs of the sword became even more important to the owners.

Some swords today are worth thousands of dollars. Although now they are mainly for show. Right after World War II, many swords were rounded up and destroyed. People trying to bring them back into the country would have them taken away and destroyed. However, still many of them like the one that I have still existed. There are many collectors that still place a very high value on them. Some are valuable because of how and who made them. Still, others are just appreciated for their beauty. There are still sword makers today. However, they are made for different reasons than as before. Many swords today are used for showpieces or for special occasions.

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